Thursday, September 24, 2009

How to Grow Half-hardy Annual Plants & Flowers

How to Grow Half-hardy Annuals: If plants are to take the place of spring bedders - bulbs, wallflowers, polyanthus, etc - there is quite a hit to do. The finished plants have to be dug up, the ground must be cleared of the inevitable weeds, forked over - never dug up in large lumps at this time of the year, possibly watered, and some `Growmore' or similar fertilizer raked into the surface at 2-4 oz per square yard (55-110 g per m2). Very wet or very hot dry weather can delay the work, but a big effort has to be made to get planting done, at the latest, by the second week in June.

If plants are going into previously prepared vacant ground, there are about three weeks in May-June when planting can be done, and it need not be rushed in unsuitable weather.

If planting formal beds, work out in advance the numbers required, the patterns and color schemes, so that when conditions are right, there need be no delay.

Distances apart vary from about 9 in to 15 in or even 18 in depending on what can he expected from the plants, and erring by planting on the close side, rather than the other way. Nothing looks worse than fully grown plants that have not met their neighbors and covered intervening ground.

Never tread the ground more than can be helped. Have plants within easy reach, if possible, rather than keep walking backwards and forwards. Pressures in different places on the soil will result in different growth. A plank or small board to tread on is often useful.

If planting near a grass edge that has to be kept mown, try to estimate for the fully grown plants to reach the edge without overflowing and smothering it. Err by leaving more of a gap than not enough. On the other hand, if it is along the edge of a concrete or stone path, plant so that the edge will be disguised as the plants grow.

If planting a bed in the centre of a lawn, put the outside row of edging plants in first. If you do it, as may seem more sensible, by starting in the middle and working outwards, the last row rarely falls just where you want it. Use a trowel for planting, not a dibber, firming each one in with the fingers, and water each one individually, however moist the ground is, because this will bring the soil and the roots into close contact and ensure a good start. A few scattered slug pellet might be a good insurance, and the finishing touch should be added by lightly pushing a dutch hoe between the plants to leave an attractive, fresh-looking surface.

Posted by at